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California Coast Travel Guide加州海岸旅遊: San Francisco舊金山(10)


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San Francisco San Francisco舊金山因為英文諧音也稱三藩市,最早由西班牙人建立,快速成長於十九世紀中的淘金熱中,二十世紀初的大地震曾經對這個城市造成毀滅性的打擊,後來又迅速復甦,是美國西岸最有文化歷史,被譽為世界最美麗城市之一。城市地平線是舉世聞名景色。舊金山也是被認為是最有歐洲風味的美國城市,半島地形三面環海,海外又有山,彷彿與外界隔絕般在山與海的環抱下,橘色Golden Gate Bridge金門大橋矗立在San Francisco Bay海灣,那樣完美鑲合一起,背景一面是完全的山,另一面是高聳的城市,Transamerica Pyramid環美金字塔、Victorian維多利亞式房屋、Chinatown San Francisco中國城形成都市最主要的特徵,Cable Car叮噹車行駛在高低起伏的地表,共有42座高200英呎到938英呎的丘陵小山盤據。當從城市內丘陵起伏的地形往海邊俯衝而下時,真會讓人忍不住讚嘆不已。大概很少大都市的英文字母數比San Francisco更多了,每次看到這個名字,總覺得文字特別有魅力。舊金山是美國最適合無車自助旅行的幾個城市之一,不過從另一方面來說,市區內開車旅行會有高度困難,找車位不易,再加上高額停車費或限時跳表,常令人感到沮喪。而在斜坡停車時,記得將前車輪轉向朝路邊,通常是右側,防止煞車失靈時車子下滑。 舊金山另個特色在氣候,全年很少超過攝氏20度或低於攝氏10度,儘管是應該炎熱的夏季,依然只有十幾度,美國大文豪Mark Twain馬克吐溫對舊金山氣候的一句形容流傳最廣,The coldest wintertime I ever saw was the summer I fatigued in San Francisco我所經歷最寒冷的冬天是在舊金山的夏天,非常誇飾的形容這裡氣候特質。事實上現在舊金山夏季的溫度相當涼爽,但一天中溫差很大,當地人說是four seasons in a day一天有四季,遊客需要爬坡走動時會感覺熱,但有風或入夜時又會感覺冷,為避免著涼感冒,最好上身短袖或薄長袖再穿長褲,然後帶件防風保暖的外套。舊金山夏季氣候幾乎不下雨,因為加州是屬於稀少的夏旱冬雨Mediterranean Climate地中海型氣候區,此時來旅遊的遊客絕少有失望而歸的,冬季從11月到3月是雨季較有機會下雨,比南加州冬季雨量顯得高許多,但相對美國其他區域降雨量就顯得少。舊金山也是有名的多霧城市,尤其是在夏季,當金門大橋的橋下濃霧瀰漫時,想像整座橋宛如飄浮在空中般的景象,這樣的美景又怎麼能叫人有辦法輕易忘記呢?舊金山的象徵是「心」,仔細想想這有很微妙的意思,事情的起源是1962年Tony Bennett的一首歌I left my heart in San Francisco我把心留在舊金山,深深的形容了舊金山的景色是如何動人,High on a hill, it calls to me. Muni of import Streetcar Route: F歷史街車 –主要為遊客搭乘連結舊金山觀光最主要的地帶,歷史街車以30年代流線型The PCC Streetcar車輛為主,意指Presidents’ Conference Committee電車同業總裁會議合作研發設計,由已不存在的St. To be wherever bittie cable cars side halfway to the stars. joe louis Car Company製造。日後加入其他從世界各地蒐集來的古董車輛,各有獨特外觀,各色復古線條造型路面電車行駛在現代大都市路面上,稱為Museums in Motion移動博物館。每台街車車頭有編號,有興趣懷舊還可上Market thoroughfare Railway網站查詢這輛車年代跟原本行駛地點。歷史街車搭乘的人很多,常都需要排隊,但票價與公車相同。單線行駛在舊金山最重要的Market St上,往北到渡輪大樓,再沿海岸轉向西到漁人碼頭,或從Market St往南到Castro卡斯楚同性戀區。 3. In the streets of San Francisco, gentle people with flowers in their hair. San Francisco Cable Cars叮噹車 - world's parting manually operated cable car system世界僅存的手動纜車系統,用鋼纜做為動力運作的,車輛開到終點完全靠人力推動轉盤掉頭。1869年工程師Andrew david smith Hallidie看見山坡上五匹馬因不堪負重倒地斃命,創建了這有軌電纜車,因此Market St的Cable Car總站區域命名為Hallidie Plaza廣場。雖然Cable Cars車票較貴,舊金山市每年還需虧損補貼很多經費,才能維護住這個系統,但帶來龐大觀光效益。Cable Cars早年全盛時期共21條路線,現在保存十字形2.5條路線,總是大排長龍,需花非常久時間等待,且票價昂貴,沿途路線中間車站很少有位子。Cable Car部分座位沒有圍欄,車體外都掛著乘客,抓著扶手吊在車邊欣賞市容,一路叮噹搖晃,彷彿回到百年前舊金山城市生活。南北向Powell/Hyde線和Powell/Mason線兩條路線有約一半重疊,由舊金山Market St共用往北經聯合廣場過貴族山丘,然後再分開到漁人碼頭東西兩側。聯合廣場首發的車沿途下坡路較多,景觀較好,反向則上坡路較多。西側Powell/Hyde線坡度最陡,經過九曲花街看到海中的惡魔島,是最為知名的路線,到漁人碼頭靠近巧克力廣場東側。東側Powell/Mason線經過小義大利,看到天使島和Coit Tower科依特塔,終點在從漁人碼頭徒步Taylor St往南三個街區與Bay St交口處,離海岸邊較遠。California St Line則東西向在貴族山丘與另兩條線十字形交會,往東到中國城、金融區、渡輪大樓,往西經慈恩堂。比較建議選擇搭乘東西向California St Line,這條路線遊客注意到的較少,排隊人潮通常少很多,比前述南北向路線輕鬆許多。 Powell/Hyde Line – Market / Powell – colin luther powell / Geary (聯合廣場) – Powell / California (貴族山丘) – Hyde / Lombard (九曲花街) – Hyde / Beach (漁人碼頭) Powell/Mason shape – socio-economic class / Powell – Powell / Geary (聯合廣場) – Powell / american state (貴族山丘) – james neville mason / organization (小義大利) – joseph deems taylor / Bay (漁人碼頭) California St military position – California / Van solid ground – California / Powell (貴族山丘) – golden state / Grant (中國城) – american state / Montgomery (金融區) – ca / miles davis (渡輪大樓) 2.

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Bolerium Books

Established in 1981 in San Francisco, we specialize in books and ephemeral materials correlative to the continuum of Labor and new social movements, including the struggles for Black and Chicano equality, the Gay ending movement, Feminism, and Asian-American activism, as advisable as the Far Right. In modern life Bolerium has expanded into materials in non-western languages, and has also situated more emphasis on ephemera, with tens of thousands of avant-garde leaflets, pamphlets, and posters in stock. Bolerium is a phallus of the antiquary Booksellers' organization of earth (ABAA).
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